I paddled out at PV in the early afternoon. The tide was low and the waves were one to three feet. I find myself coming to PV even when its not working the best because there is less of a crowd here. I like that I can always find parking and its not as competitive as Porto. The waves today are glassy. Even in the late afternoon the cove is protected form the wind giving me all the clean rights I could ask for. There was no one out here, but it was the middle of the day during a work week. It's awesome having a job that makes you work night shifts because I can surf when everyone else is at work.
When I catch my first wave its a long right. I pop up with ease gliding down the smooth line. My pop up has been getting easier recently. I think it's because I've been more consistent and I also lost a lot of weight. It's easier to lift your body up when your lighter. The waves are so long that I try turning on the face, but I end up loosing the wave. I'm not as experienced turning. I've been surfing for a year and going straight was perfectly fin with me before, but now it seems boring. If I don't get down the line sometimes I find myself ditching the wave because who wants to ride straight when you could be getting a lot more out the wave. I know this is a mentality that my Matt has passed on to me, and I think about him a lot when I'm surfing. He has become the voice in my head and when I surf I think about everything he has taught me.
I see another three foot bump coming and I paddle for it. I pop up fast and am down the line. I don't want to risk loosing this wave so I start to walk the board instead. I try to get to the end of my board because I really want to hang ten. I'm a little unbalanced and I move back on my board. I slide back and forth trying to feel the motions of the board until the wave fades out. It was a nice ride.
While I'm surfing a guy on a long board paddles out. He tries to sit on his board and falls off. When a wave comes his way he ditches the board and ducks under. I'm thinking to myself what is this guy doing. A small bump not even a wave comes his wave and he turns around to paddle for it. When he doesn't get it he slaps the water. I wonder if I looked that silly in the beginning?
No comments:
Post a Comment