Surfing with the WHC

It’s not easy being a surfer girl. There are very few of us out there. The most important part about surfing for me is to have fun, but on top of having fun it’s important to show you got the stuff. Today I was surfed at Rosecrans in Manhattan Beach with my boyfriend’s surfing buddies. They’re all about my dad’s age and totally treat me like a daughter, which means they push me. It’s not a bad thing, but let’s faces it these guys make a crappy day look like an exceptional day while I struggle. We paddled out this morning at first light. The waves were two to three feet and sectioned. There was an occasional shoulder, but mostly close outs. Rick paddled back up to the lineup. “Dave I just got three turns off the lip.”

No freakin way. Of course he did, Rick is a wave magnet. I go for the next wave and all I can do is get three pumps down the line before it closed. Dave went for a set wave. It’s big and held shape. He throws a bucket of water out the back. “Heat winner,” Russell said.

“Where’s you dad?”

“He’s on the beach taking pictures.”

I looked back at Gary on the sand. “Jimmy was here. But he didn’t want to paddle out,” Russ said.

These guys are going to give him so much shit later, for not paddling out. These are the same guys that run heats on crappy days. Sorry Jimmy you don’t get a pass, not in the WHC.

Gary pointed towards an area he thinks is better. Dave and Russ get out and walk on the beach, while Rick and I paddle. My boyfriend Matt would be proud. He doesn’t believe in getting out of the water. One day at Huntington Beach, the current was so impossibly strong, Matt and I paddle out with our crew the DRC. Everyone had to get out and walk on the sand. We were riding a damn carousel. But Matt refused to get out. He continually paddled in one spot, catching waves in between paddling. I know, right, he’s insane.

The waves aren’t really much better. I go for a close out and purl over my board. Rick and Russ catch waves in, while Dave and I drift back where we started. I saw Dave get another good left. I go for another wave and purled it. I get caught up in the white was, and what do you know I lose another pair of Matt’s ear plugs. Opps. I catch a wave in on my stomach. While I’m trying to change at my car some guy in a suit and tie asks me how the surf was. I look up. He looks like a gym buff. “It was kind of walled up,” I said. Please go away.

“We’ve been getting good swell for summer,” he said.

“Yeah usually you have to drive down south.” How do I tell him I have a boyfriend?

“Where do you travel down south?” he said.

“Trestles, Huntington Beach, just recently I went north to Jalama.” Jalama was amazing. If I could describe a perfect day it would be Jalama. We scored it breaking five to six feet. It is just a big wave with perfect shape. it breaks in four spots. The spot we surfed was Tarantulas. Imagine three peaks that A frame, that is Tarantulas. Amazing!

“I’m originally from Huntington. I just recently went to Bali and it was amazing,” he said.

“My boyfriend loves Bali,” I said.

“Yeah it’s really fun.”

“Well, have a good day.” Yes I’m taken, I’m taken, taken, taken. Thank you very much.

After my millionth encounter with a guy trying to talk to me while I’m changing, I walk down to Rick and Gary to say goodbye. Rick isn’t done with socializing this morning so we go to Blue Butterfly and split a bagel. I swear it’s almost like sitting with my dad having breakfast. I really miss my dad. He’s still in Oregon with the rest of my family.