My boyfriend just recently left for a surf trip in Indonesia. I wasn't able to go on this trip which kind of bummed me out, but to be honest being left here was probably the best thing for me. I had never surfed on my own. The first time I ever went surfing was my first date with Donny Duckbutter, and every time after was with him too. I knew that this time would come and that it would be my true test as a surfer. Because I have been with Donny, I haven't really been able to discover myself in surfing. Sometimes I've even questioned if I go surfing because I want to or because Donny wants to. I have had surf sessions where I was stoked to go and I have had others particularly the one's where Donny wakes me up at 5 am where I am not as enthused.
I drove down to PV for my first solo sesh. It's the spot I am most familiar with and the waves break nice and easy. I'm really stoked for two reasons. One this is the first time I am surfing alone and I can't wait to do whatever I want out of Donny's watchful eye. Two my car had broken down the other day, and this is also the first time I've ever driven Donny's car.
I suite up and hit the trail down to the cove. When I come around to a point I can see that no one is in the water. This should be a sign of bad surf, but when I look out there are 2-3 feet waves breaking, mostly rights. My stoke is enhanced because not only is this my first solo sesh, but I am truly going to surf alone. In Southern California this is rare, almost impossible. At the bottom of the cove I strapped my leash to my ankle and paddled out. Donny has already taught me all the tricks of the cove. He has become the voice in my head when it comes to surfing " follow the trail in, paddle out at an angle."
It's a long paddle out, but I make it. The wave over here are a long boarders best friend, they break slow and soft. Sometimes I think about surfing in terms of sex. Sometimes it's fun to go on fast pounding waves, but there's nothing like being made love to by the ocean.
I go for my first wave. It's a small 2 foot bump, but I'm eager for my first wave. I paddle hard. I hear Donny in my ear "head down." The wave is under my board and I popup. I draw a line going right. The wave is long, but the face doesn't have the size to turn. I take a step forward and try to walk the board. I remember how much I loved watching the long boarding videos collecting dust in Donny's apartment. I reach the edge curling the toes on my left foot over before my nose sink, I loose my balance, and pearl. I'm not much of a vocal person, but I come out of the water shouting "Woo," to claim the wave.
I paddled back for more. Wave after wave, they are all mine. I can't believe that no one is out here and I feel so blessed to have all these waves to myself. There's such a buffet of waves for me. I start goofing around spinning in circle on my board. I event sat down on my but and leaned back like I was on a bob sled. For the first time in my life I have surfed alone and I can truly say without a doubt I am surf stoked.
No comments:
Post a Comment