I paddled out at PV in the early afternoon. The tide was low and the waves were one to three feet. I find myself coming to PV even when its not working the best because there is less of a crowd here. I like that I can always find parking and its not as competitive as Porto. The waves today are glassy. Even in the late afternoon the cove is protected form the wind giving me all the clean rights I could ask for. There was no one out here, but it was the middle of the day during a work week. It's awesome having a job that makes you work night shifts because I can surf when everyone else is at work.
When I catch my first wave its a long right. I pop up with ease gliding down the smooth line. My pop up has been getting easier recently. I think it's because I've been more consistent and I also lost a lot of weight. It's easier to lift your body up when your lighter. The waves are so long that I try turning on the face, but I end up loosing the wave. I'm not as experienced turning. I've been surfing for a year and going straight was perfectly fin with me before, but now it seems boring. If I don't get down the line sometimes I find myself ditching the wave because who wants to ride straight when you could be getting a lot more out the wave. I know this is a mentality that my Matt has passed on to me, and I think about him a lot when I'm surfing. He has become the voice in my head and when I surf I think about everything he has taught me.
I see another three foot bump coming and I paddle for it. I pop up fast and am down the line. I don't want to risk loosing this wave so I start to walk the board instead. I try to get to the end of my board because I really want to hang ten. I'm a little unbalanced and I move back on my board. I slide back and forth trying to feel the motions of the board until the wave fades out. It was a nice ride.
While I'm surfing a guy on a long board paddles out. He tries to sit on his board and falls off. When a wave comes his way he ditches the board and ducks under. I'm thinking to myself what is this guy doing. A small bump not even a wave comes his wave and he turns around to paddle for it. When he doesn't get it he slaps the water. I wonder if I looked that silly in the beginning?
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Thursday, May 30, 2013
First Solo Sesh
My boyfriend just recently left for a surf trip in Indonesia. I wasn't able to go on this trip which kind of bummed me out, but to be honest being left here was probably the best thing for me. I had never surfed on my own. The first time I ever went surfing was my first date with Donny Duckbutter, and every time after was with him too. I knew that this time would come and that it would be my true test as a surfer. Because I have been with Donny, I haven't really been able to discover myself in surfing. Sometimes I've even questioned if I go surfing because I want to or because Donny wants to. I have had surf sessions where I was stoked to go and I have had others particularly the one's where Donny wakes me up at 5 am where I am not as enthused.
I drove down to PV for my first solo sesh. It's the spot I am most familiar with and the waves break nice and easy. I'm really stoked for two reasons. One this is the first time I am surfing alone and I can't wait to do whatever I want out of Donny's watchful eye. Two my car had broken down the other day, and this is also the first time I've ever driven Donny's car.
I suite up and hit the trail down to the cove. When I come around to a point I can see that no one is in the water. This should be a sign of bad surf, but when I look out there are 2-3 feet waves breaking, mostly rights. My stoke is enhanced because not only is this my first solo sesh, but I am truly going to surf alone. In Southern California this is rare, almost impossible. At the bottom of the cove I strapped my leash to my ankle and paddled out. Donny has already taught me all the tricks of the cove. He has become the voice in my head when it comes to surfing " follow the trail in, paddle out at an angle."
It's a long paddle out, but I make it. The wave over here are a long boarders best friend, they break slow and soft. Sometimes I think about surfing in terms of sex. Sometimes it's fun to go on fast pounding waves, but there's nothing like being made love to by the ocean.
I go for my first wave. It's a small 2 foot bump, but I'm eager for my first wave. I paddle hard. I hear Donny in my ear "head down." The wave is under my board and I popup. I draw a line going right. The wave is long, but the face doesn't have the size to turn. I take a step forward and try to walk the board. I remember how much I loved watching the long boarding videos collecting dust in Donny's apartment. I reach the edge curling the toes on my left foot over before my nose sink, I loose my balance, and pearl. I'm not much of a vocal person, but I come out of the water shouting "Woo," to claim the wave.
I paddled back for more. Wave after wave, they are all mine. I can't believe that no one is out here and I feel so blessed to have all these waves to myself. There's such a buffet of waves for me. I start goofing around spinning in circle on my board. I event sat down on my but and leaned back like I was on a bob sled. For the first time in my life I have surfed alone and I can truly say without a doubt I am surf stoked.
I drove down to PV for my first solo sesh. It's the spot I am most familiar with and the waves break nice and easy. I'm really stoked for two reasons. One this is the first time I am surfing alone and I can't wait to do whatever I want out of Donny's watchful eye. Two my car had broken down the other day, and this is also the first time I've ever driven Donny's car.
I suite up and hit the trail down to the cove. When I come around to a point I can see that no one is in the water. This should be a sign of bad surf, but when I look out there are 2-3 feet waves breaking, mostly rights. My stoke is enhanced because not only is this my first solo sesh, but I am truly going to surf alone. In Southern California this is rare, almost impossible. At the bottom of the cove I strapped my leash to my ankle and paddled out. Donny has already taught me all the tricks of the cove. He has become the voice in my head when it comes to surfing " follow the trail in, paddle out at an angle."
It's a long paddle out, but I make it. The wave over here are a long boarders best friend, they break slow and soft. Sometimes I think about surfing in terms of sex. Sometimes it's fun to go on fast pounding waves, but there's nothing like being made love to by the ocean.
I go for my first wave. It's a small 2 foot bump, but I'm eager for my first wave. I paddle hard. I hear Donny in my ear "head down." The wave is under my board and I popup. I draw a line going right. The wave is long, but the face doesn't have the size to turn. I take a step forward and try to walk the board. I remember how much I loved watching the long boarding videos collecting dust in Donny's apartment. I reach the edge curling the toes on my left foot over before my nose sink, I loose my balance, and pearl. I'm not much of a vocal person, but I come out of the water shouting "Woo," to claim the wave.
I paddled back for more. Wave after wave, they are all mine. I can't believe that no one is out here and I feel so blessed to have all these waves to myself. There's such a buffet of waves for me. I start goofing around spinning in circle on my board. I event sat down on my but and leaned back like I was on a bob sled. For the first time in my life I have surfed alone and I can truly say without a doubt I am surf stoked.
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